Adjusting Bock Stabiliser Rods

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In DIER need of poweriser hoofs
05/18/2010 07:44 pm
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[Jason]

Not really a Mod but I thought this was the best place for this so

Just a few words on adjusting the stabiliser rods on bocks

This won't be the only way to do it but I have found it works for me and the few people I have done it for

A little bit of theory first
When you cut the bocks back to basics there are only three points that matter
1 The top of the spring  (pivot point )
2 The heal of the footplate  (movement point )
3 The bottom of the spring  ( pivot point )

If you get these three in line the bocks should bounce true
I have seen a lot of people trying to line them up by looking along the footplate and getting the spring in the middle (I used this method at first) the problem with this way is that the springs sometimes have a slight twist in them (Glassfibre is like that) so by lining them up with the footplate you are effectively pushing the hoof to oneside or the other

First you need to get them all square (we can adjust for preference later)

I have noticed that they come from the factory anything from true to completely twisted
No brands mentioned here but some seem to be better than others (and not the ones your expect )

[Jason]

Step 1)  You will need something with a Right Angle on it so if you don't have a Square you can use a DVD case as shown below

The gap at the top should be the same as at the bottom this will make the footplate and upright at 90 degrees to each other (we can lean them back or forward later)

To reduce the top gap you move the nuts on the stabiliser bars up and to increase it move them down

If you have the same difference between top and bottom on both bocks and are happy with the action you can leave them like that the idea is to get both bocks at the same angle

If the bocks are very far out it is wise to loosen the large bolt at the footplate to upright joint (don't forget to tighten when you finnish adjusting)

[Jason]

Step 2)  I have made an adjuster to get the Bocks straight all it is is a bit of wite bent into a hook, a piece of string and an elastic band the picture below shows how it is made

[Jason]

Step 3)  You fit it as the pics below show by hooking it onto the V at the top of the spring and passing it through the footplate and the lower bracket them hooking it over the hoof as shown (it helps if you remove the calf pad first I leave mine off all the time)

Make sure that the knot at the hoof end is on the center of the hoof (you can look down the length of the string from the top to line it up)

[Jason]

Step 5)  Adjusting

Take one Bock and set the adjuster up as above

If the string is to one side you can adjust the nuts on the stabiliser bars

It is best to move them a small amount at a time by trial and error but make sure you move each side the same amount but in opposite directions ( If the string is to the left move the left nuts down 1 turn and the right nuts up 1 turn )

Check the string again to see if it has moved in the desired direction if it has repeat until the string is central then tighten all the nuts

If it has gone the wrong way reverse the procedure

Then do the other bock tighten all nuts and go for a bounce then recheck and readjust if needed as they can go out a bit when used

If any of this is confusing I'm sorry (it confuses me too) but feel free to ask and I will try to explain better

[Nobby]

Are there no bounds to your ingenuity?

[Jason]

I try I try 

[aidanh1]

so jason if i wanted the back of my foot plate rasing would these bars work for me?

or do i adjust summat else?

[Dark Knight]

Jason very good.
But for major wraped plates where it way off 90% or the angle you want the frame bolt would need to be loosen too otherwise it may put stress on the metal frame between the rod and that bolt ?
Wouldn't matter in most cases but on a major rebuild it's worth noting.

Aidanh1, yes but they shouldn't be move too much and has I just said the frame bolt would need to the loosened too

[Spud]

Never heard of that dk. It shouldnt make any difference to the rest of the frane and there are a few main bolts. There isnt that much room for adjustment on the rods and i have had no probs. Aidan, why do you want the heel up. Down is best for jumping and stuff because of the way you need to put weight to get most out of the spring.

 

[Dark Knight]

The main frame bolt is the one that hold the upright to the cross beam

If someone want to alter the angle by lot then this bolt needs to be loosened. Otherwise the frame will have to bend if the adjuster bolt are move to much.

[darfgarf]

DK:yes that is logical, but i've never had that bolt tight enough to stop it pivoting with a moderate anount of force, once you start jumping on em they'll equalised the pressures etc pretty quickly, though is a good idea if adjusting more than about 5 degrees either way maybe

[Dark Knight]

DK:yes that is logical, but i've never had that bolt tight enough to stop it pivoting with a moderate anount of force, once you start jumping on em they'll equalised the pressures etc pretty quickly, though is a good idea if adjusting more than about 5 degrees either way maybe

I had that problem when I had to change two rods and the frame was bashed out of true and the bolt on my frame was tight. Some new designs like Hillys made doesn't have that pivit point !

[aidanh1]

ok right well i want maximum bounce thats possible what do i adjust?

[darfgarf]

if you're not having trouble with them, don't change them

i find it easier to tilt the footplates backwards though, but makes running harder, and i've just had them liek that for so long if i change it i fall over pretty quickly

[Jason]

Err am I missing something Dk or did you miss the last line of the second post where it says

"If the bocks are very far out it is wise to loosen the large bolt at the footplate to upright joint (don't forget to tighten when you finnish adjusting)"

Is the word "Owned" 

Jason